See that process here: Atlas_Lathe_Restoration. Please note that this picture was taken before our Atlas lathe was restored to full working condition. This is a diagram of the parts of a lathe. 5 Replacement Shop Posters and Oiling Charts.If the screw wasn't worn in the middle, it would be perfectly fine with the patched up nut. 23 1/2 years of occasional use later it's still as good as the day I 'fixed' it. I don't use the lathe every day, and it will often set for months without being used at all, but I bought it November 14 1989, and broke it down into lighter componants and took down in the basement, so it would have been early in the Spring of 1990 that I did that 'temporary' repair. At either end of the travel I still have Zero back lash. 012+ and move back in again so it is always has pressure feeding in to the cut. The back lash in the middle isn't much of an issue as long as you back out that. To make it as good as possible in the worn area, I placed the nut about 1/3rd of the way in from the end of the threaded shaft which made it tight enough that I had to work it back & forth quite a few times before I was able to get it off the end of the thread to reassemble it on the lathe. I didn't heat anything up or use parrafin wax, I just cleaned everything good, followed the instructions, and used the release agent that comes with the lock tight form-a-thread kit. The brass nut was totally stripped out on mine when I bought it, and with eBay in its infancy replacement parts were slim pickens. My lathe is an old South Bend Heavy 10inch tool room lathe that apparently did a LOT of facing as the cross slide screw is worn in the middle while the leadscrew has very little wear anywhere on it. It is pretty snug at both ends of the travel even after several years of light to moderate use. 012 back lash in mine is near the middle of the cross slide screw where it has the most wear.
0 kommentar(er)
